REFINANCING

Buy Now, Refinance Later: Does It Work?

Buying at today's rate and refinancing if rates fall is a common plan. It can work, as long as the purchase still makes sense if the refinance never comes.

Reaixo9 min readPublished
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Plain-English summary
“Buy now, refinance later” is a bet that rates fall enough, and your finances stay strong enough, to make a refinance worth its cost. The safest version is to buy a home you can afford at today’s rate and treat any refinance as a bonus.
Check refinance break-even

The idea, and why it is tempting

If you wait for rates to fall, you risk competing with more buyers when they do and paying a higher price. If you buy now, you pay today’s rate, but you can refinance when the numbers work. The logic is sound only if the numbers do work, and if you could live with the higher payment if they never do. Nobody can predict mortgage rates. The buying power calculator shows what a lower rate would be worth on your own budget, so you know what you would gain by waiting versus buying now.

Mortgage payment and buying power

The monthly payment on a home price, and the price a monthly budget supports.

The calculator loads as you scroll. Open the full mortgage calculator if you prefer.

Assumptions
  • Principal and interest from the standard payment formula; property tax and insurance entered by you.
  • Buying power uses your monthly budget only; lenders also weigh income, debts and credit.
  • Rates are your input, not a quote.

The break-even math

Say you buy with a $400,000, 30-year loan at 7.00% (payment $2,661.21). Two years later your balance is about $391,580 and rates have dropped to 6.00%. Refinancing into a new 30-year loan would cost an assumed 3% in closing costs, about $11,747.

Keep current loanRefinance to 30 years at 6%Refinance to 28 years at 6%
Monthly principal & interest$2,661$2,348$2,409
Monthly savings$313$253
Closing costs (assumed 3%)$11,747$11,747
Break-even37.5 months46.5 months

The 28-year version keeps your original payoff date, so the savings are smaller but the interest you save is real; the 30-year version restarts the clock and lowers the payment more, but you pay interest for two extra years. If you stay past the break-even, the refinance pays for itself. If you sell first, you lose the closing costs. The full refinance break-even calculator lets you test your own loan, including cash-out and term changes.

What can stop a refinance

  • Rates do not fall, or fall less than you need after counting closing costs.
  • Your credit score, income or debt changes and you no longer qualify for the best rate.
  • The home's value drops, so your loan-to-value is higher and you may face mortgage insurance or a worse rate.
  • Your remaining time in the home is shorter than the break-even.
  • Closing costs are higher than you assumed, or the loan has a prepayment penalty.

Ways to prepare for the plan to fail

  • Qualify and budget at today's rate. Treat a lower payment later as a bonus, not a requirement.
  • Keep an emergency fund so the higher payment is survivable during a refinance delay.
  • Ask for a loan with no prepayment penalty.
  • Keep your credit strong and your debt low so that you qualify later.
  • Keep records of your home's value and improvements.

Alternatives to "buy now, refinance later"

  • Buy down the rate with points. See mortgage points and the permanent buydown.
  • Use a temporary buydown if a seller or builder offers one, and be sure you can afford the full payment. See 2-1 buydown vs permanent buydown.
  • Consider an adjustable-rate mortgage if you plan to move within the fixed period. See ARM vs fixed.
  • Make a larger down payment, or use extra principal payments or a recast to lower your payment later. See mortgage recasting.

Each of these has its own costs, so compare them rather than assuming the refinance will be the cheapest path: mortgage points, 2-1 vs permanent buydowns, ARM vs fixed and mortgage recasting. If you are still choosing a lender, compare Loan Estimates and decide whether to lock using the rate lock guide.

Sources and further reading

Written by the Reaixo editorial team. Last reviewed . Educational information, not financial, legal or tax advice.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Should I buy now and refinance later? +

It can work, but it is a plan that depends on things you do not control: future rates, your credit, your income and your home's value. Only count on a refinance if you could comfortably afford the payment on the loan you take today.

How do I know if a refinance will pay off? +

Divide your total refinance costs by the monthly payment you would save. That is the break-even in months. If you will keep the home longer than that, the refinance can pay for itself. A refinance that restarts the loan term can make the payment lower while costing more interest overall.

How much do rates need to fall to refinance? +

There is no single number. It depends on your balance, remaining term, closing costs and how long you will stay. Run your own numbers in a refinance break-even calculator.

What does it cost to refinance? +

Refinancing typically has closing costs similar in kind to a purchase loan, such as lender fees, appraisal, title and recording. The amount varies by lender and loan size, and it may be rolled into the new loan. The example here assumes 3% as an illustration.

Is a rate buydown a better idea than planning to refinance? +

A buydown lowers your cost without depending on a future refinance, but it has its own cost. Compare the two with the buydown calculator.

Can I refinance right away? +

Often there is no prohibition, but some loans have waiting periods or recent-purchase rules, and lenders require a new appraisal and qualification. Ask your lender about any seasoning requirements.

Put these numbers to work

Compare real offers, see what you can afford, then check the home itself.

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